Ramayana costume designers defend Sita, Kaikeyi looks amid online backlash

The debate over the costumes in Nitesh Tiwari's upcoming Ramayana has taken a new turn, with the film's costume designers, Rimple and Harpreet Narang, breaking their silence. The designer duo, known for their work on period dramas, has faced a wave of online criticism over the looks of Sai Pallavi as Sita and Lara Dutta as Kaikeyi. In an exclusive conversation, they have a clear message for the detractors: this is not about archaeological authenticity.

Designers hit back at 'judging before seeing'

The Narangs, who have previously designed for films like Padmaavat and The Empire, said the backlash stems from a misunderstanding of the creative process. They argued that costumes in a mythological retelling are not museum pieces but tools to serve the story and the actor's performance.

“Don’t judge before you see the film,” the duo said, responding to the torrent of comments on social media. They emphasised that a single still or a leaked image cannot capture the nuance, texture, or movement of a costume in the context of a scene. The designers believe the reaction is premature and overlooks the months of research and craftsmanship behind each garment.

Artistic vision over literal history

When asked about the specific criticism aimed at the pallu styles, jewellery, and colour palettes, the Narangs were firm. “The Ramayana is a living text, not a fixed historical document. Our job was to create a visual language that feels both timeless and immediate,” they explained. They pointed out that the epic has been retold across centuries, with each era's artists adapting the story to their own aesthetic sensibilities.

For the designers, the guiding principle was not what a 5th-century BCE weaver might have produced, but what would make the characters resonate with a contemporary audience. “It’s about the emotion of the character. Sita’s grace, Kaikeyi’s ambition — these are abstract qualities we had to translate into cloth and ornament,” they said.

The craft behind the controversy

Rimple and Harpreet also shed light on the intensive labour involved in creating the costumes. Each outfit, they noted, was handcrafted with traditional techniques, involving weavers and artisans from across the country. The goal was to create a look that was opulent yet grounded, fantastical yet believable.

They acknowledged that the high-profile casting of Pallavi and Dutta has put the film's aesthetics under a microscope. The designers, however, remain confident that the final product will silence the naysayers. “When you see the film, you will understand why we made these choices,” they asserted.

A pattern of online scrutiny

The backlash against the Ramayana costumes is part of a broader trend in Indian cinema, where filmmakers and designers face intense scrutiny on social media over period-accurate details. From jewellery to fabric weaves, every element is now subject to public debate. The Narangs, who have navigated such controversies before, say they are used to it but maintain that the focus should remain on storytelling.

They also noted that the criticism is not uniform, with many fans defending the looks. The duo is grateful for the support but reiterated that their primary audience is the filmmaker and the narrative.

What happens next

As the release date approaches, the makers are expected to release more promotional material, which could either quell or reignite the debate. For now, the designers are standing by their work, urging patience. The final verdict, they believe, will come when the epic unfolds on the big screen, with the costumes in motion, under the director's vision. That, they say, is the only context that truly matters.